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Stopping Tin Roof From Leaking: Expert Solutions in Brooklyn

Every time it rains in Brooklyn, does your tin roof drip in the same spot-and you’re wondering how to actually make it stop for good? The real issue isn’t finding something to patch it right now; it’s understanding why that patch keeps failing every six months. Most tin roof leaks in Brooklyn row houses and older commercial buildings come from failed seams, loose fasteners punched through rust spots, or deteriorated substrate underneath-and covering them with more roof cement or silver coat is like putting a Band-Aid on a broken bone. True, permanent fixes require diagnosing the root cause, prepping correctly, and choosing the right repair strategy based on how much life the tin really has left.

In seventeen years working on Brooklyn’s tin and galvanized steel roofs-from Bed-Stuy three-stories to Red Hook warehouses-I’ve seen the same cycle: homeowner patches a leak, it holds through summer, fails again at the first ice dam or wind-driven rain, repeat. The difference between a repair that lasts two seasons and one that lasts ten years comes down to whether you’re sealing over the problem or actually fixing the metal, the fastener penetrations, and the seam integrity underneath.

Where Tin Roofs Actually Leak in Brooklyn Buildings

Before you can stop a leak, you need to find where water’s getting in-and with tin roofs, the visible drip inside is rarely directly below the entry point. Water runs downslope under the panels, sometimes 6 to 10 feet, before it finds a gap to drip through. The most common leak sources I find on Brooklyn tin roofs fall into a few predictable categories:

• Standing seam failures: The vertical seams on standing-seam tin roofs are crimped and folded, but over decades the metal fatigues, the folds loosen, or rust eats through from the inside where moisture condenses. Once a seam opens even a quarter-inch, every hard rain pushes water inside.
• Corrugated panel overlaps: On corrugated tin roofs, panels overlap at the ridges, held by exposed fasteners. When fasteners back out, rust through, or the rubber washer deteriorates, each screw becomes a leak point. I’ve pulled screws on Crown Heights garages that were just spinning in enlarged, rusted holes.
• Valleys and transitions: Where tin meets brick parapets, skylights, or roof edges, the flashing is usually soldered or caulked tin. These joints move differently than the field of the roof-thermal expansion, building settling-and they crack or pull away first.
• Rust perforation: Unpainted or poorly maintained tin eventually rusts through, especially at low spots where water pools or along edges where the galvanizing wore off. Once you have pinholes or larger rust-through, no amount of coating will seal it without substrate repair.
• Fastener “tenting”: On older installs, fasteners were driven straight through tin into wood purlins. As the wood dries and shrinks over 50+ years, the tin can lift slightly around each fastener, creating tiny tents that let water wick underneath.

On a Sunset Park rowhouse last spring, the owner had been patching the same back corner for three years-buying tubes of roof cement every few months, climbing up and smearing more over the seam. When I pulled back the layers of old sealant, the standing seam underneath had a 14-inch split where the mechanical lock had fatigued and opened. Water was running inside the seam, then traveling 8 feet down the slope before dripping through a screw hole into the top-floor ceiling. No amount of surface sealant was ever going to fix that-it needed the seam re-formed and mechanically locked, then sealed properly.

How to Diagnose Your Tin Roof Leak Correctly

The first rule of stopping a tin roof from leaking permanently is finding the actual entry point, not just the drip. Here’s the field diagnostic approach I use that you can replicate, at least partially, from the ground or attic:

Trace the water path from inside: Go into the attic during or right after a rain. Bring a flashlight and look at the underside of the tin or the substrate (usually wood sheathing or skip boards). Follow any wet spots uphill toward the ridge-water always enters higher than where it drips. Mark the area with chalk on the rafters.

Inspect the roof surface methodically: Once you know the general zone, get on the roof safely (tin is slippery when wet or dewy-I use rubber-sole boots and a harness anchored at the ridge). Check every seam, fastener, and transition within 10 feet upslope of your chalk mark. Look for:

• Open seams-you can often see daylight or slide a putty knife into the gap
• Missing or rusted fasteners
• Rust stains running downslope from a perforation
• Lifted panel edges
• Cracked or missing sealant at flashing joints

Water test if necessary: If you can’t find an obvious breach, run a garden hose on the suspected area for 10-15 minutes while someone watches inside. Start low and work upslope-this isolates the entry point. I’ve found seam leaks this way that were invisible from casual inspection because the metal had just enough spring tension to close the gap when not under water pressure.

Understanding the leak type determines your repair strategy. A single rusted-through fastener? That’s a $40 fix-remove the old screw, patch the hole with a small piece of matching metal and sealant, install a new fastener 2 inches away into solid substrate. An entire 20-foot seam that’s opened? That’s a $800-$1,200 repair involving mechanical re-seaming or overlay patches. Rust perforation across 30% of the roof? That’s restoration territory, possibly $6,500-$14,000 depending on substrate condition, because you’re looking at panel replacement or a complete overlay system.

Temporary vs. Permanent Tin Roof Leak Repairs

Let’s be clear about something up front: there are emergency stops and there are real fixes. Both have a place. If it’s pouring rain on a Friday night and water’s dripping onto your bed in Bed-Stuy, you’re not calling for a full seam repair-you’re getting a tarp or a tube of sealant to make it through the weekend. But you need to know which one you’re doing and plan accordingly.

Temporary measures (good for 3-18 months):

• Roof cement or silicone caulk over seams or fasteners-quick, cheap ($8-$25 in materials), but it will crack and peel as the metal expands and contracts. Expect to redo it.
• Peel-and-stick rubber membrane patches-better than straight caulk because they flex, but they only adhere well to clean, dry, rust-free metal. On a deteriorated tin roof, they’ll lift at the edges within a season. Cost: $30-$60 for a small patch.
• Spray foam in large gaps-I’ve seen this used to fill open seams from the attic side. It stops the immediate drip, but it traps moisture against the metal and accelerates rust. Only use this if you’re planning a full roof replacement within 12 months and just need to hold off water damage.

Permanent repairs (5-20+ year lifespan depending on execution):

• Mechanical seam repair: For standing-seam leaks, you re-fold and re-crimp the seam using a seaming tool, then seal it with a butyl or polyurethane sealant rated for metal roofing. This restores the original water-shedding design. On a typical Brooklyn rowhouse seam, this runs $85-$140 per linear foot depending on access and how much old sealant needs removal first.
• Fastener replacement and substrate repair: Pull the old, failed fasteners. If the substrate (usually 1×6 or 1×8 pine boards) is rotted, sister in a new piece of treated lumber or plywood. Install new fasteners with neoprene or EPDM washers into solid wood. Seal the old holes with metal patch and sealant. Cost per fastener zone: $45-$95 including materials.
• Panel replacement: If rust has eaten through the tin in sections, cut out the bad panels and install new galvanized or painted steel to match. This is surgical-you’re preserving 80% of the roof and replacing the 20% that’s failing. Expect $180-$320 per square foot of panel replaced, including flashing integration.
• Metal patch and rivet: For smaller rust holes (under 4 inches), clean the area to bare metal, cut a patch from matching-gauge tin with 3-inch overlap all around, seal the perimeter with butyl tape, then rivet or screw through both layers. This creates a mechanical, waterproof bond. Cost: $120-$200 per patch including labor.

On a Red Hook garage roof two years ago, the owner had been applying silver roof coating every spring for five years-spending about $850 total in materials and his own labor. The roof still leaked at three seams and around the vent pipe flashing. We pulled the coating back, found the seams were mechanically failed and two vent pipe flanges were cracked. We re-seamed 30 linear feet, replaced both vent flashings, cleaned and prepped the whole roof, then applied a proper elastomeric coating system. Total cost: $4,200. That roof hasn’t leaked since, and the coating has another 8-10 years of service life if maintained. The lesson: five years of temporary patches cost almost as much as the permanent fix, but delivered none of the reliability.

The Right Way to Stop Seam Leaks on Standing-Seam Tin Roofs

Standing-seam tin roofs are elegant-when they work, they shed water beautifully with almost no fastener penetrations in the field. When the seams fail, they leak persistently because water gets inside the fold and runs down the length of the seam, finding every weak point. Here’s the proper repair sequence I use, which you can DIY if you’re comfortable on a roof and have the right tools, or which any competent roofer should follow:

Step 1: Clean the seam area. Remove all old sealant, dirt, rust, and coating for at least 12 inches on either side of the leak. Use a wire brush, scraper, or even a grinder with a wire wheel for heavy rust. You want bare, clean metal. If you seal over old degraded material, you’re just trapping the problem.

Step 2: Re-form the seam mechanically. If the seam has opened, you need to close it before sealing. For traditional standing seams, use a hand-seaming tool (looks like a pair of tongs with a lever) to press the two panels back together and re-crimp the fold. Work in 2-foot sections, applying steady pressure. If the metal is too fatigued or brittle to re-fold without cracking, you’ll need to go to a cover strategy (see Step 4).

Step 3: Seal the seam with proper sealant. Use a polyurethane or butyl-based sealant designed for metal-to-metal roofing joints-not generic silicone or roof cement. Apply a continuous bead along the seam, then smooth it with a putty knife to press it into the joint and create a slight fillet on each side. The sealant should bridge the metal and remain flexible through temperature swings from -10°F to 160°F (summer surface temps on tin in Brooklyn).

Step 4: Install a seam cover if necessary. If the seam won’t close mechanically, or if you’re seeing multiple stress cracks along the fold, install a pre-formed metal seam cover. These are galvanized or painted steel channels that snap or screw over the existing seam, with integrated sealant flanges. They essentially create a new standing seam over the old one. Cost for materials: $9-$16 per linear foot; installation adds $55-$90 per foot in labor.

I’ve re-seamed dozens of Brooklyn rowhouse roofs this way-buildings from the 1920s and 1930s with original tin that still had 15-20 years of life left once the seams were properly closed and sealed. The key is not rushing the prep. I’ve seen contractors slap sealant over dirty, rusty seams and call it done. That repair fails within one winter because the sealant never bonded to the metal-it just adhered to the layer of rust and old coating, which then peels away.

Fixing Fastener Leaks and Exposed Screw Problems

Corrugated tin roofs, and even some standing-seam installations, use exposed fasteners through the top of the panels. These screws-typically 12 or 14 hex-head with rubber or neoprene washers-are designed to seal when driven snug. But over 20, 30, 40 years, they fail predictably:

• The rubber washer deteriorates from UV exposure and ozone, hardens, cracks
• The screw backs out slightly as the substrate wood shrinks or the roof deck moves
• Rust forms around the fastener, enlarging the hole
• The fastener was over-driven initially, crushing the washer and cracking the metal around the hole

The fix is straightforward but must be done correctly. Here’s the field protocol:

Remove the failed fastener entirely. Don’t just tighten it or add sealant around it. If the hole is already compromised, tightening just makes it worse. Back the screw out completely. Inspect the hole-if it’s enlarged more than 1/8 inch beyond the original screw diameter, or if the metal around it is cracked or badly rusted, you can’t reuse that hole.

Repair the substrate if needed. Probe the wood where the screw was. If it’s soft, black, or punky, that section of purlin or sheathing is rotted and won’t hold a fastener. From underneath (attic side), sister a piece of pressure-treated 2×4 or exterior-grade plywood alongside the damaged area, screwed into solid framing. This gives you a new, solid base.

Patch the old hole. Cut a small piece of matching-gauge metal (I keep scraps of galvanized sheet for this)-about 2×2 inches. Apply butyl tape or a thick bead of polyurethane sealant to the underside, center it over the hole, and press it down. Then apply sealant around the perimeter. If the roof is visible and appearance matters, you can rivet this patch to the panel-two or three aluminum rivets-so it sits flat and looks intentional.

Install the new fastener in solid material. Measure 2-3 inches away from the patched hole, along the same purlin line. Pre-drill a pilot hole slightly smaller than the screw diameter-this prevents the metal from dimpling and ensures the fastener bites cleanly into the wood. Use a new screw with a fresh neoprene washer (I use 12 x 1½” pancake-head screws with EPDM washers for tin over ¾” wood). Drive it snug-just until the washer compresses slightly and seals, but not so tight that it crushes or cracks the metal. You should see a tiny bit of washer squeeze-out around the screw head.

Seal the fastener head. Even with a good washer, I add a small dab of clear or color-matched sealant over the screw head as insurance. This fills the drive socket and adds an extra layer of UV protection to the washer.

I fixed 47 fastener leaks on a single Sunset Park garage roof last fall-every screw along the south slope had deteriorated washers from sun exposure. Rather than try to save $800 by just smearing sealant over them, the owner authorized pulling and replacing every fastener with new hardware and proper sealing. The labor took most of a day, total cost was $2,180 including materials and substrate repairs on 8 locations. That roof went from leaking at a dozen points to bone dry, and those new fasteners will hold another 20 years if maintained.

Dealing with Rust: When You Can Patch vs. When You Need Replacement

Rust is the slow death of tin roofs, especially in Brooklyn’s humid, salt-air-adjacent climate. Galvanized coatings last 30-50 years depending on thickness and maintenance; once that zinc layer is gone, the steel underneath oxidizes. The question every building owner faces: can you stop the rust and patch it, or is the roof too far gone?

Here’s my field assessment framework, developed over hundreds of Brooklyn tin roofs:

Surface rust (10-25% of panels affected, no perforation): This is repairable. Wire-brush or grind the rust down to clean metal, treat with a rust converter or metal primer, then seal with an elastomeric roof coating. The coating acts as a new barrier against moisture and UV. I use acrylic or silicone-based coatings rated for metal roofs-one base coat, one top coat, total thickness around 15-20 mils. This approach costs $3.80-$6.50 per square foot in materials and labor, and it extends the roof life 8-15 years if done correctly.

Localized perforation (rust holes under 6 inches, affecting <15% of roof area): Cut out the rusted section or patch over it. For holes up to about 4 inches, I clean aggressively around the perforation-at least 6 inches in all directions down to bare metal-then install a metal patch as described earlier, sealed with butyl tape and mechanically fastened with rivets or screws. For larger sections, it may make sense to replace an entire panel or two rather than patching multiple holes. Cost per patch: $120-$280 depending on size and access; panel replacement: $180-$320 per square foot.

Widespread rust (>30% of panels with thinning, multiple perforations, structural weakness): At this stage, repair doesn’t make economic sense. You’re chasing leaks every season, and even aggressive patching leaves you with a fragile roof that’s one hailstorm or falling branch away from failure. The honest recommendation is replacement-either a new metal roof or a different system like EPDM rubber if the building won’t support the weight of new metal. Full replacement on a typical Brooklyn rowhouse (900-1,400 sq ft roof): $9,500-$18,000 depending on access, substrate condition, and material choice.

The hardest conversations I have are with owners whose tin roofs are at that 25-35% rust threshold-too far gone to repair cheaply, but not quite collapsed enough to force replacement. My advice: if you’re spending more than 30% of the replacement cost on repairs over a 3-year period, and the roof is still leaking, it’s time to replace. Otherwise you’re throwing money into a losing proposition.

Last year, I walked a Crown Heights owner through this exact decision. Her 1930s tin roof had widespread surface rust, six perforation zones, and multiple seam failures. She’d been quoted $3,800 for extensive patching and coating. I showed her that the substrate was also deteriorating-rotted wood in 20% of the deck-so even after spending $3,800 on the tin, she’d need another $2,200 in deck repair within two years, plus the roof would likely start leaking again at new points within 3-5 years. We replaced the roof with new galvanized standing seam over new sheathing for $13,400. She spent more upfront, but she got a 40-year roof instead of a 4-year patch job.

Roof Coating Systems: When They Work and When They’re a Waste

Elastomeric roof coatings-the thick, rubbery paints marketed as “liquid roofing”-have a place in tin roof restoration. But they’re wildly oversold and frequently misapplied, which gives them a bad reputation. Let me break down when coating actually stops leaks versus when it’s just expensive paint.

When coatings work: On a tin roof with intact panels, good substrate, and properly sealed seams/fasteners, a quality elastomeric coating adds a seamless waterproof membrane over the entire surface. It seals minor imperfections, protects against UV degradation, and reflects heat (white coatings can drop surface temps 30-40°F, which reduces cooling costs). The coating flexes with metal expansion and contracts without cracking. Applied correctly-surface prep, primer, two finish coats-it’s a legitimate 10-15 year waterproofing system. Cost: $2.80-$5.20 per square foot all-in.

When coatings fail: If you apply coating over open seams, active rust, loose fasteners, or deteriorated substrate, you’re just covering up the problems, not fixing them. The coating might stop small drips temporarily, but water will find the real leaks underneath and keep causing damage-you just won’t see it until the ceiling collapses or the rust spreads another 20%. I’ve torn off coating systems where the tin underneath was 40% rusted through, but the homeowner didn’t know because the thick white coating hid it. They spent $4,500 on a coating job that bought them maybe 18 months, then needed a $15,000 roof replacement anyway.

The key question: Is the underlying roof mechanically and structurally sound? If yes, coating is a smart investment. If no, coating is a expensive band-aid that will fail and leave you with a bigger repair bill later because the hidden damage progressed.

Proper coating application sequence (what any reputable contractor should do):

1. Inspect and repair all leaks first. Fix every seam, fastener, flashing, and rust perforation before a drop of coating goes on. This is non-negotiable.
2. Power wash the roof. Remove all dirt, chalk, old coatings, and loose rust. Let it dry completely-48 hours minimum in good weather.
3. Prime bare metal and heavily weathered areas. Use a primer compatible with the coating system. This ensures adhesion and prevents future rust on exposed steel.
4. Apply base coat. Roll or spray the elastomeric coating in a continuous layer, working to manufacturer’s specified wet-film thickness (usually 10-15 mils). Embed reinforcing fabric at seams, transitions, and any stress points.
5. Apply top coat. After the base coat cures (usually 24-48 hours), apply the finish coat. Total dry-film thickness should be at least 20 mils-thicker (up to 30-40 mils) in high-wear areas like valleys or near parapets.
6. Detail the edges and penetrations. Extra coating at roof edges, vent pipes, chimneys-anywhere water concentrates or metal moves.

I coated a Bed-Stuy rowhouse tin roof three years ago after we repaired 18 feet of seams, replaced 23 fasteners, and patched four rust zones. The owner had tried coating it herself five years prior without fixing the underlying issues-that coating peeled within two years and the leaks continued. After our proper prep and repair, we applied a silicone-based elastomeric system (two coats, total 28 mils). That roof is still dry, and the coating shows minimal wear. The difference was doing the foundational work first.

When to Repair, Restore, or Replace: The Decision Framework

The toughest part of stopping a tin roof from leaking permanently is making the honest call about whether repair is enough or if you’re just delaying the inevitable. Here’s the decision tree I walk Brooklyn building owners through:

Choose targeted repair if:

• Leaks are limited to 1-3 specific areas (a seam, a flashing, a cluster of fasteners)
• The tin panels are generally sound-no widespread rust, perforations, or thinning
• The substrate (roof deck) is dry and solid in 90%+ of the area
• You’ve addressed the leaks within the last 5 years or less (not chasing 15-year-old problems)
• Budget: $850-$3,500 depending on complexity
• Expected additional service life: 8-15 years with proper maintenance

Choose full restoration (repair + coating) if:

• Seams and fasteners are failing at multiple locations but panels are mostly intact
• Surface rust is present but hasn’t perforated widely (under 20% of roof area)
• The substrate is good or you’re willing to repair bad sections as part of the project
• You want to maximize the life of the existing tin without replacement cost
• Budget: $4,200-$11,000 for a typical Brooklyn rowhouse
• Expected additional service life: 10-18 years if executed correctly

Choose replacement if:

• Rust perforation affects more than 25% of the roof area
• Substrate is rotted, spongy, or failing in multiple zones
• The tin is so thin or brittle that walking on it causes dents or cracks
• You’ve spent more than 25% of replacement cost on repairs in the past 3 years and still have leaks
• The building will be held another 15+ years and you want reliability
• Budget: $9,500-$22,000 depending on size, access, and material choice (new tin, steel, or alternate system)
• Expected service life: 30-50 years for new galvanized or painted steel

The false economy I see most often: spending $2,000-$4,000 every 2-3 years on repairs because you’re trying to avoid the $12,000 replacement. After 6-8 years, you’ve spent the same money, dealt with ongoing leaks and interior damage, and you still need a new roof. Sometimes the brave financial move is accepting that the current roof is done and investing in a permanent solution.

Why Brooklyn Tin Roofs Leak More Than Others

Not to make excuses for leaky roofs, but Brooklyn’s climate and building stock do make tin roofs more vulnerable than, say, tin roofs in drier or less temperature-variable regions. A few factors I see consistently:

Freeze-thaw cycles: We get 20-40 freeze-thaw events per winter. Water gets into seams or under fasteners, freezes (expands 9%), thaws, refreezes. This hydraulic pressure slowly pries seams open and enlarges fastener holes. Tin roofs in Georgia or Texas don’t face this.

Low roof slopes: Many Brooklyn rowhouses have nearly flat or very low-slope tin roofs (2:12 or less). At these slopes, wind-driven rain can push water upslope under panels and seams that would shed water fine at a 4:12 or steeper pitch. This is a design limitation-the roof was adequate in 1925, but maybe not by modern standards.

Deferred maintenance: Older buildings in neighborhoods like Bed-Stuy, Crown Heights, and Bushwick often went through decades of disinvestment and minimal maintenance. Tin roofs that should have been cleaned, painted, and fastener-checked every 8-10 years went 30-40 years untouched. By the time current owners address them, the damage is advanced.

Proximity to salt air: Even neighborhoods a mile or two from the water get enough marine air to accelerate galvanizing breakdown and rust formation compared to inland areas. This isn’t Cape Cod-level exposure, but it’s a factor over 50 years.

Understanding these stressors helps frame realistic expectations. A tin roof leak in Brooklyn isn’t necessarily a sign of a bad roof or bad prior work-it’s often just an old roof reaching the end of its design life under tough conditions.

What It Actually Costs to Stop a Tin Roof Leak in Brooklyn

Let’s talk real numbers from recent projects, because online estimates are all over the map and often useless. These are 2024 costs for typical Brooklyn rowhouse and small commercial building tin roofs:

Emergency patch (temporary): $125-$280 if you call a roofer to come seal a single leak with roof cement or a peel-and-stick patch. DIY cost: $15-$45 in materials. Lifespan: 4-18 months.

Single seam repair (permanent): $380-$950 for cleaning, re-seaming, and sealing a 10-20 foot section of standing seam. Add $150-$320 if substrate repair is needed underneath.

Fastener repair zone (10-20 fasteners): $850-$1,600 including removal, patching old holes, substrate inspection/repair, new hardware, and sealing.

Rust patch and panel replacement (small area): $650-$1,800 for cutting out and replacing a 3×6 or 4×8 foot section of rusted tin, including substrate repair and flashing integration.

Full roof restoration (repair + coating): For a 1,000-1,200 sq ft Brooklyn rowhouse tin roof with typical issues (multiple seam leaks, fastener failures, surface rust), expect $5,200-$9,800. This includes all repairs, surface prep, priming, and two-coat elastomeric system. Larger or more complex roofs (dormers, multiple penetrations, difficult access): $8,500-$14,000.

Full tin roof replacement: New standing-seam galvanized steel over new sheathing, typical rowhouse: $11,500-$18,500. Corrugated tin or painted steel: $9,500-$15,000. Prices vary significantly based on access (scaffolding vs. ladder), substrate condition, and whether you’re matching historical appearance (custom-formed seams, specific profiles).

For context: I did a Red Hook warehouse roof last year, about 2,800 sq ft of corrugated tin. It had 40+ fastener leaks, three rusted-through sections, and two valley flashings that had pulled away. We replaced 180 fasteners, patched the rust zones with new panels, rebuilt the valleys, and coated the whole roof. Total: $13,800. The owner had been quoted $8,500 for “repair and coat” by another contractor who planned to just smear coating over the existing problems. That cheaper bid would have failed within a year. Sometimes paying more upfront for thorough work is the actual cost-saving move.

Working with Dennis Roofing to Stop Your Tin Roof Leak

If your Brooklyn tin roof is leaking and you’ve read this far, you understand that “stopping” the leak means diagnosing it correctly, fixing the root cause, and choosing a repair strategy that matches the remaining life of the roof. That’s the approach we take at Dennis Roofing-we’re not interested in selling you a coating job that fails in 18 months or patching the same seam three times because we didn’t do it right the first time.

We’ll inspect your roof from the attic and the surface, trace the water path, identify every compromised seam, fastener, and rust zone, and give you an honest assessment: repair, restoration, or replacement. If repair makes sense, we’ll do it with proper prep, the right materials, and mechanical integrity-not just sealant over problems. If your roof is too far gone, we’ll tell you that too, and explain why spending $4,000 on patches is wasting money that should go toward a new roof.

Brooklyn’s older tin roofs can be saved and can go another 10-20 years if the work is done correctly and the underlying structure is sound. But it requires a contractor who understands metal roofing systems, not just someone who shows up with a caulk gun and a prayer. We’ve worked on tin roofs from Bed-Stuy to Sunset Park to Red Hook for seventeen years, and we know the difference between a fix that lasts two seasons and one that lasts fifteen.

If you’re tired of chasing the same leak and want it actually stopped, give us a call. We’ll figure out what it takes and give you a clear path from “this thing drips every storm” to “this roof is done leaking.”

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